Our initial impression of the Isle of Harris was not as we might have expected following reviews we’d heard before. Some locations are painted as absolute perfection but even the most beautiful tropical island cannot be perfect in real life. We were headed to St Kilda and stopped off on Harris en route with a cottage to return to for the second week of our Scottish Island adventure. We arrived with overcast skies, which accompanied us along the winding roads; casting the gentle hills in shadows. We were surprised as had not imagined this landscape after many visits to the Inner Hebrides, which look very different. However, it only took the turn of a corner and the arrival of the sun to illuminate one of Harris’ most precious gems – Luskentyre Beach.
The beaches on Harris have not been over-estimated. They are stunning! Luskentyre is one of the more famous beaches and from the first time we saw it, it was immediately clear why. At low tide the sparkling white sands look to stretch for miles and in the sun the sea appears turquoise. The over all effect creates a Carribean-esque appearance to the extreme where when commissioned to provide a magazine with a photograph of a Carribean beach, a photographer headed to Harris instead and provided an image of a Harris beach with palm trees added in. The magazine was none the wiser.
The down-side of these stunning beaches is that the first thing you want to do on a warm day, is strip down and head into the water. BIG MISTAKE! This is only for the very brave or those who do not feel the cold. The further you head into the Atlantic, the colder it seems to get so a dip on a magnificent Harris beach might make the experience slightly less wonderful.
As with many of the Scottish Islands, there is often a feeling of possibility. The addiction to looking from land to sea to sky in the hope of seeing wildlife is hard to fight. It can pay off though. In the most unexpected of places you can stumble across some great wildlife. One of our most special moments was whilst walking along Scarista Beach on South Harris, and as if from nowhere, a Juvenile White-Tailed Eagle appeared with a Gull in tow mobbing it. Surprise sightings like this one truly make the island feel special.
There is a certain level of charisma that comes with the isle of Harris. When driving, it is common to wave to everyone you see. Some of the best places to eat are tiny and incredibly charming – for example Croft 36, which lays out fresh food from Monday to Saturday with an honesty box for payment. The food is incredible and perfect if you want something to take for your lunch as you head out for a walk. The Temple Cafe is so well situated, is lovely to look at and a great place to sit in and eat. Eating on Harris on a Sunday is a little more difficult. The island is very religious and so in most part observes the Sabbath in a way that would have been common on the mainland decades ago. You could easily cause offence by hanging out your washing on a Sunday and we stayed in one bed and breakfast that asked us not to watch television on a Sunday. We were not aware of how religious the island was until we arrived so think it’s useful to have a head’s up so you can be prepared and remain respectful of the islander’s way of life. A few places remain open for food on a Sunday for example the Harris Hotel, which serves large and lovely meals though it might be worth booking in advance.
North Harris holds a charm all of its own. We had a lot of sightings of Otters and enjoyed watching a pair of Golden Eagles close to the North Harris Eagle Observatory. We also had the cobwebs blown away in high winds with a walk of the Clisham Horseshoe (one of my favourite walks to date). As with many parts of Scotland, wet weather gear is a must but even if the weather is poor, it can sometimes enhance rather than detract from an outing in the North Harris hills if you carry a good attitude with you.
All in all, it’s clear that our first impression of Harris was merely fleeting. The island is beautiful and special in its own way. I know people who holiday there every year as they love the island and can imagine nowhere better to stay. As with anywhere, the only way to enjoy it to its fullest extent is to emerge yourself in the landscapes, wildlife, culture and history that is offered on a plate.
ISLE OF HARRIS
Useful Links
CROFT 36
For local produce available via an honesty box, visit Croft 36:
THE TEMPLE CAFE
For lovely views and tasty food, put The Temple Cafe on your route:
www.facebook.com/thetemplecafe
HARRIS HOTEL
For a sit down meal in pleasant surroundings, book to eat in the Harris Hotel: